Cancun, Mexico – To get to Campeche and back, I rode the new Tren Maya, which now circles the Yucatan Peninsula, connecting towns, tourist attractions, and archaeological sites, big and small. This particular route – between Cancun and Campeche – has been operating for only a year. The route in its entirety – including branches to Palenque and Calakmul – was just completed last month. This baby is brand spanking new.
Goals and Criticisms
The goal of this mega-rail project is to facilitate travel around the peninsula, diverting some of the tourist traffic away from Cancun and the Costa Maya, and bringing some of its economic benefits to lesser-traveled places. All laudable goals, but the project has attracted plenty of criticism as well. Environmentalists cite deforestation, destruction of wildlife habitats and corridors, and pollution of ground water among the many harmful outcomes.
From residents of local villages, I heard mixed opinions of the project. Many villagers were pleased with the compensation they received when they turned over their land for construction of the railways; but others did not receive any compensation (if they could not prove the own it). That said, most folks I met are excited about their improved economic prospects from the Tren Maya.
The Ride
As a traveler, I also have mixed feelings. As a train riding experience, it was pleasant enough. The train stations are all shiny and new and eerily empty. By contrast, the trains are shiny and new – and packed! My train was pretty full in both directions, especially between Cancun and Merida. In both cases, I was one of only a few foreigners on the train. Mexican citizens get a national rate that is significantly cheaper than international tourists – and they seem to be taking advantage of it. The workers were pleasant and attentive, coming through to collect trash and sweep the floor. The train itself was comfortable and modern (but surprisingly there was no wifi on board).
A big inconvenience is that all of the train stations are way out of town. So after you arrive, you have to take an additional taxi or bus before you actually arrive. When the train pulled up in Campeche, all the passengers left the train, then boarded a bus for a 25-minute ride into town. The same thing happened in Cancun. Theoretically, it also works that way in small villages and remote archaeological sites…? But it’s hard to believe there will be buses waiting around for the few travelers that get off the train at these smaller stops.
Tourism and Development
Logistics aside, the Tren Maya raises some interesting questions about tourism and development. Surely, the train will bring more travelers and more money to poorer regions like Campeche. But how will that new wealth be distributed? And how will the growth be managed? Often, with the increase in tourism comes crowded sights, big resorts, higher prices, more construction, more environmental destruction, etc. And eventually, the allure of this offbeat region could be lost.
Somewhere in there is a sweet spot, where the community is able to maximize the benefits and minimize the detriments of the new wealth and growth. And therein lies the challenge of tourism and development.
