Isla Holbox, Mexico – For the record, it is pronounced hol-bosh (rhymes with gauche). Two hours north of Cancún, Isla Holbox once attracted only windsurfers and beach bums. But now its swanky swing bars, beachfront yoga and lobster pizza are calling to travelers of all ages and interests (including windsurfers and beach bums). This is my kind of place – a little offbeat, a little out of the way, definitely not fancy, but still replete with simple luxuries.
Getting to Isla Holbox
I always say that the best places are hard to get to. Holbox is no exception, requiring a three-leg journey to reach the island, perched between the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean Sea. BUT all three steps are relatively simple – a direct flight to Cancún (four hours from Boston); a direct bus or shuttle from the airport to the port at Chiquilá (two hours); and an easy ferry ride across the bay to the island (30 minutes). It’s actually not hard at all, compared to some of my other favorite places.
But it is hard enough, if you know what I mean. The island is free of day-trippers, cruise-ship passengers, tour groups and other undesirables that bring a place down. (No offense, I have certainly fit into these categories at various times in my life; but I do believe these types of travelers can change a off-the-beaten-track place for the worse.)
The Vibe
The accommodations are small-scale and family-owned; the beach is long and glorious; and the streets are made of sand. And they flood frequently. It can be difficult to navigate (as I learned first-hand).
But this is the kind of thing that makes a visit to Holbox feel like an adventure. It also keeps the naysayers away. Meanwhile, the rusticity does not deter from top-notch drinking and dining establishments, and a downright swanky vibe at some of the lodgings and beach clubs.
Things to Do
The weather was terrible while I was on Isla Holbox. My trip to Tres Islas (one of the signature tours) was canceled because it was not safe for boats to go out on the water. I spent one day snug in my hotel room, scribbling away, because it was too wet and windy to do anything else (although the kiters were having a blast). But here’s what I did do:
Eat Tacos
Don’t get me wrong, I have eaten tacos in every Mexican destination. Lots of them. But this is the first time I took a dedicated taco tour. It’s not normally the kind of thing I would be into – who needs a tour when you can just walk into a restaurant and eat tacos? But it was recommended by a colleague. Besides, as a solo traveler, I was craving some company, so I thought this would be a good place to find some.
I was right. Our guide Lorena took us to four different restaurants, which she selected after soliciting feedback and sampling every taco on the island. Each restaurant had a different vibe, and each one served a different kind of taco, paired with a different kind of drink. We even got one taco from a street cart (birria tacos = to die for!)
Along the way, Lorena taught us everything we ever wanted to know about tacos… how to eat them (hint: no utensils allowed!), as well as their role in Mexican cuisine and culture. She also taught us a few fun “taco” idiomatic expressions. My favorite is taco de ojo, which literally means “eye taco” but it’s the equivalent of “eye candy” in English. Of course this refers to somebody who is so good-looking you want to eat them up! It was definitely an entertaining and delicious evening – highly recommended.
Kayak Through the Mangroves
Behind the beaches, Holbox is a network of estuaries and lagoons, weaving through lush forests of red and black mangroves. Protected by the Yum Balam reserve, this rich wildlife habitat is home to more than 200 species of bird, including the famous pink flamingos (from April to October). American crocodiles also lurk in these brackish waters. Mangroves take root directly in the mucky water, so the only way to explore this unique habitat is by paddling through it, either in a kayak or on a stand-up paddle board. I took a fantastic early-morning kayak tour with Azul Tourquesa. Flamingos are not in season, but we did see frigate birds, pelicans, rockturns, white ibis, and four kinds of herons, as well as a baby croc!
Lounge on the Beach
You know I did! The weather was not great, but I enjoyed relaxing at the Punta Caliza Beach Club, sipping a mezcalita and reading a book. (A novel! For fun!) Now this is my kind of place.
