Isla Mujeres, Mexico – What a treat to return to Isla Mujeres, a sweet island off the coast of Cancún that we visited 12 years ago. That was an all-out intergenerational family vacation, with toddlers and grandparents. This visit was a little different, as I am traveling solo; but the island feels remarkably unchanged.
I suspect that in reality a LOT has changed. There are more resorts, more restaurants, more Airbnbs, more ticky-tacky tourist shops and, yes, more tourists. But the vibe on the island is exactly as I remember it. Here are the highlights from my return to Isla Mujeres.
Playa Norte
The glorious beach of Playa Norte is still a list-topper, just as it was 12 years ago. Unfortunately, the weather left a lot to be desired. It was so windy on Playa Norte that the beach was nearly empty.
I retreated around the corner to Playa Central, and hunkered down at Zama Beach Club for an afternoon in the… clouds. The good news is that it was far from crowded, and there were no minimum purchase requirements (normally about $25 per person). Also, I didn’t get sunburned.
And my memories of my previous visit kept me warm.
Bike the Island
Golf carts are the main mode of transportation on Isla Mujeres. But the island is only about 8km from end to end, so I rented a bicycle to see the island on two wheels. Riding through town is a little precarious, but most of the route is on wide roads with few cars and plenty of fabulous sea views.
From the ferry terminal, I headed south past the statue of a whale shark, welcoming all to Isla Mujeres. These sharks (not whales) are the biggest fish in the sea, reaching up to 12m in length! They congregate in the waters north of Isla Mujeres from May to September. (Note to self: come in July if you want to swim with whale sharks.)
Continuing south, I pedaled about 6km until I reached Punta Sur, perfect stop for some stunning scenery and interesting history (and an ice cream); see below.
On the way back, I rode along the coastal road on the east side of the island, with incredible views along the way.
In the village of Colonias the seaside Capilla de Guadalupe is a delightful chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe, with a shell-studded altar and stunning views out to sea.
All that cycling definitely works up an appetite so I highly recommend making a pit stop at Isla Brewing Co for satisfying food and a cold craft brew. From there, it was a quick ride back into town, thus completing my circumnavigation of the island.
Punta Sur
At the southern end of the island, Punta Sur was a scenic diversion from my bike ride. This is the highest point of the Yucatán Peninsula and the easternmost point in Mexico, and it was a sacred place for the Maya. Here they built a temple dedicated to Ixchel, goddess of the moon, fertility and childbirth. The temple was a pilgrimage site for Maya women, who came to seek blessings for healthy pregnancies and safe deliveries.
Nowadays, a statue of Ixchel greets you near the entrance to this national park. Inside, walking trails wind through the park, past colorful statues highlighting other Maya gods and some historic figures.
The centerpiece is the ruin of the Temple of Ixchel, perched high atop a cliff, with waves crashing below. The structure itself is small, but the setting is stunning. There’s also a stairway down to a precarious cement path at the water’s edge. This is where I spotted dolphins fishing and playing in the surf nearby!
