Campeche, Mexico – Welcome to the other side of the Yucatán, and I mean that both literally and figuratively. Located in the far southwestern corner of the peninsula, Campeche state is more rural, less prosperous and less developed than other destinations in the region. My first stop is the seaside state capital, Campeche city, a Colonial-style city with pastel-colored houses lined up around a shady central square. Surrounding the Campeche centro histórico are 17th-century walls, erected to protect the town from pirate attacks.
Pirates!
Throughout the 16th and 17th centuries, Campeche was a frequent target of pirate raids, due to its wealth and its proximity to shipping routes. Pirates seized vessels, looted the city and kidnapped civilians to sell them into slavery. One of the most devastating attacks came in 1685, when the Dutchman Laurens de Graaf, aka Lorencillo, captured and eventually killed some 300 civilians.
The raids highlighted the vulnerability of coastal cities at the time. Eventually, to protect the city from marauders, they built a hexagonal-shaped wall around the city, with 10 bastions for lookouts and four gates for entry. The project was completed in 1704, by which time pirate activity in the Bay of Campeche had started to die down.
It is some intriguing history, for sure. But unfortunately there’s not really anywhere in Campeche that showcases it – except for the city walls and bastions, many of which are still standing.
A Walk Around the Walls
The walls and bastions – and additional forts on the outskirts – are open for exploration and sweeping views over the city. I took myself on a tour of the city walls, starting at the Puerta de Tierra on the eastern side of the Campeche centro histórico. Here, you can climb atop the stone gate for views over the rooftops. The bell alerted the population to pirate attacks and other dangers. Near the Puerta de Tierra, about 600 yards of the wall are open for exploration.
Back at ground level, Calle 59 is lined with pastel-painted houses with decorated porticos. The street terminates at the picturesque Puerta del Mar. Formerly, the Puerta de Mar gate opened to a wharf, but city planners filled in the shallow waters and the waterfront is now several blocks further west. Nearby, another baluarte gives access to a short stretch of the city walls at this end of town. It also contains the worthwhile Museo de la Arquitectura Maya (more on that later).
I ended my explorations at Plaza de la Independencia, shaded by raintrees and crowned with a belle-epoque kiosk at its center. Handsome historic buildings line the plaza – most strikingly, the spectacular Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Purísima Concepción.
