Poʻipū, Kaua’i – For my second week in Kaua’i, I moved from the North Shore to the South Shore. The epicenter of South Shore tourism, Poʻipū is less of a town and more of a well-manicured resort area (similar to Princeville on the North Shore). In fact, less than 1400 people actually live here, so it feels a bit contrived. But beyond the manicured lawns and lagoon-style swimming pools, this place has a wild side. And it’s on full display right at central Poʻipū Beach.
Each night at sunset, dozens of honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) drag themselves ashore at Poʻipū Beach Park. Turtles have actually been basking on Hawaiian beaches for decades in smaller numbers. But when the pandemic put a damper on tourism, they began visiting Poʻipū en masse. Now, as many as 100 honu come ashore every evening, clambering for a peaceful spot. It is incredible to witness these ancient creatures congregating on the sand, seemingly oblivious to the crowds of human onlookers (and also to each other).
Of course they are not oblivious. Especially if people do not respect their space! I was distressed to read reports of tourists crowding around the turtles, chasing them in the water and even blocking their path to the beach. I did not witness this behavior myself, but I can imagine it happening during the busier seasons. Volunteers with Mālama i Nā Honu (Protect the Turtles) do their best to ensure that people do not get too close, by limiting access to a small portion of the beach. But people are still swimming and snorkeling in the surrounding waters. Furthermore, some folks ignore the posted signs on the beach.
The best way to protect the sea turtles of of Poʻipū Beach would be to close the entire sand and swimming area after a certain hour. This could be an effective measure, especially during busy seasons when the number of tourists becomes unmanageable. There is still a huge grassy parkland where people could sit and turtle watch. Plus, there are plenty of other beaches for people to frolic. Give the honu some peace on their beach. Mālama i nā honu!
