Poʻipū, Kauaʻi – I spent my last full day on Kaua’i hiking the Mahaʻulepu Heritage Trail, a fantastic 3½-mile shoreline trail that leads past stark cliffs, pounding seas, tide pools, blow holes, secluded bays and beaches, heiau (temple) ruins, a fossil-filled cave and more. It truly took my breath away (not only due to steep climbs). Here are some of the highlights:
Shipwreck Beach
The trail starts at Shipwreck Beach, a wild and wonderful stretch of sand, shaded by banyan trees and coconut palms. There was nobody here when I started my hike, which inspired me to do some yoga on the beach before starting my hike.
Towering over the east end of the beach is a gigantic lithified sand dune known as Makawehi Point, overlooking Keoneloa Bay. (When I returned to this spot in the afternoon, fearless folks were cliff jumping here. Yikes! I was too chicken to give it a go, but locals were doing it with their kids, so it’s probably safe if you know what you’re doing.)
Poʻipū Bay Golf Course
Kaua’i is definitely good for scenic golf courses (as I discovered during my first week). For a while the Mahaʻulepu Heritage Trail skirts the oceanside Poʻipū Bay Golf Course, with the rugged Haupu Mountains as a backdrop.
On the ocean side of the trail, there are limestone and sandstone pinnacles and lava rock tidepools. High walls of black boulders stretch down to the ocean, marking the site of an ancient temple known as Heiau Ho‘oului‘a.
Makauwahi Cave
I followed a short detour to Makauwahi Cave, which is no longer open for exploration, I discovered. But I did climb up to the top, where you can peer into the deep, circular sinkhole. At the base, there is also a 3ft-high crawlspace to peek through. This sandy-floor cave holds a rich collection of fossils, evidence of many extinct or rare species of plants, insects and birds.
Mahaʻulepu Beach
Mahaʻulepu Beach is the first and most accessible in a series of drop-dead gorgeous, wild beaches. It was an investment to get here on foot, but it’s also accessible by car (preferably a 4WD). Next along was Kawailoa Bay, where I stopped for a dip and a picnic lunch.
Momilani Kai
What a surprise to discover a small but lovely labyrinth high up on the headland at Momilani Kai. The labyrinth is a memorial to a local woman, Sherita Pearl Vlach, created by her family from native plants and natural materials. A posted placard indicated the Momilani Kai means `Pearl Cove’ – maybe one reason the place was dear to this lady, who shared its name. But the sacredness of this place is surely more universal than that, as I felt it myself, as I walked the labyrinth, absorbed the scenery and felt the breeze off the ocean. I am grateful to her and her family for sharing it with the rest of us.