Skagway, Alaska – Skagway has a wild story. When gold was discovered in the Klondike in 1896, tens of thousands of stampeders set out to strike it rich, traveling over land and sea to reach the remote Canadian territory. The gold rush was on. There were several ways to get there, but the cheapest was to sail to Skagway, then hike over the Coast Range mountains and build a boat to float down the Yukon River to Dawson. Practically overnight, Skagway grew from a small settlement into a gold rush boom town, famous for its bars, brothels and hard living.
From Settlement to Boom Town
Way back in 1887, Captain William Moore had a hunch that there was gold in these parts. So he established a homestead in this uninhabited corner of Alaska. He later built a wharf and a sawmill and began to develop White Pass Trail heading north. Lo and behold, within a decade, tens of thousands of prospectors were passing through his town (now Skagway). Nowadays Moore’s homestead is part of the Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Site. The site includes many other historic buildings, with exhibits showcasing all aspects of the nefarious history of this gold rush boom town.
So yes, I went to another brothel-museum, this time at the Red Onion Saloon, (The first was Dolly’s House in Ketchikan.) Downstairs, the historic saloon still buzzes with activity. Upstairs, self-proclaimed madams–decked out in lacy bustiers and dropping innuendos in every sentence–give tours of the brothel rooms. The so-called “Quickie” tour was really interesting and entertaining, covering the history and operation of the brothel, as well as the lives of the working girls.
The Road to Klondike
Most prospectors did not stay long in Skagway, but continued on to Dawson. There were two routes over the mountains, both equally treacherous–the Chilkoot Trail and the White Pass Trail. Hundreds of people (and thousands of horses) died trying to make this journey from disease, malnutrition, hypothermia and even an avalanche. The route was only about 35 miles, but the stampeders had to make multiple trips to transport a ton of gear. (Literally! The Canadian government required each person to bring a year’s worth of food, plus clothing and equipment, which added up to a ton of supplies.)
In 1800, developers completed a railroad line over White Pass, which was an incredible feat of engineering. Ironically, by this time, the gold rush was all but over. Most of the stampeders had already left, disappointed, while some headed to the seek their fortune in other locations. Nowadays, the White Pass & Yukon Route Railroad offers a scenic and historic train ride for tourists (more on that later).
Meanwhile, the Chilkoot Trail is still open for adventurous hikers to follow in the footsteps of the fortune seekers on a challenging 33-mile trek from Skagway to Lake Bennett. Alas, emblematic of current US-Canada relations, the border at the Chilkoot Pass closed at the beginning of this year. Hopefully it is temporary, but it is currently impossible to hike the entire route end-to-end.
Skagway Today
The Klondike Gold Rush National Historic Site was a wonderful surprise, as I knew nothing about this fascinating history. The town of the Skagway and the National Park Service have taken advantage of this quirky episode from the past. Unlike many historic sites, the story is not really about triumph or tragedy–though there was certainly plenty of both. It’s more about entrepreneurship (bordering on criminality in some cases) and perseverance (sometimes foolishness), with a healthy dose of irony. It’s not really a history to celebrate, but still fascinating to learn about.
Attractions capitalize on every aspect of the history, turning this tiny town into a major cruise ship hub. Love it or hate it, the cruise ship industry has enabled the development of countless ways to explore, engage and learn. From museums to movies, from scenic train rides to scenic hiking trails, there is truly something for everyone in Skagway.