Hanalei, Kaua’i – The town of Hanalei wraps around its namesake bay, flanked by three magnificent mountains – twin-peaked Hīhīmanu, pyramidal Māmalahoa and soaring Nāmolokama (4421ft). The three emerald giants are famously laced with waterfalls and often adorned by rainbows. Down at sea level, endless waves roll into the slender crescent beach. (In fact, this is where the twins learned to surf four years ago.) And at its northeastern end, near Black Pot Beach, a wooden pier stretches out into the bay, providing the perfect springboard for kids (and kids-at-heart) to launch into the crystal blue. It’s a magical scene, for sure.
Today I paddled a kayak down the American Heritage River and out to beautiful Hanalei Bay, on a kayak tour with Kayak Hanalei. There we stopped for a picnic on the sands of Pu’u Poa Beach, while our fantastic tour guide Kolo serenaded us with Hawaiian tunes. Here he is singing IZ Kamakawiwoʻole’s ode to Kaua’i, “Hele On To Kaua’i”.
We even snorkeled off the beach, spotting hawksbill turtles and the famous Humuhumunukunukuapua’a, the state fish of Hawai’i. He’s a beaut!
In retrospect, it would be easy – and much cheaper – to rent a kayak from Kayak Hanalei and do this trip independently, as the route is straightforward. (Apparently I had the exact same thought about kayaking the Wailua River, when we did that tour on our last trip.)
But as a solo traveler, I’m glad I did the tour this time. I wouldn’t want to miss Kolo’s music!
Kolo shared some fun local lore about Hanalei Bay. When you gaze upon the western hills, shrouded in mist, you can discern the outline of a sleeping dragon. A bare spot on the northern most hill marks his eye. The higher mountains form the humps and bumps on his back. I couldn’t get a good photograph of the dragon, but I could definitely see it.
Kolo told us that Peter Yarrow (of Peter, Paul & Mary) was so enchanted by Hanalei Bay that he composed the song “Puff,” about a magic dragon who “lived by the sea… in a land called Honah Lee.” (I never could sing this song all the way through without tearing up.)
Anyway, sad to say, my independent research revealed that this local lore is not true. The song is actually based on a poem written by Yarrow’s friend Ogden Nash. When asked about the seeming reference to Hanalei Bay, he called it a “serendipitous coincidence.” But that doesn’t detract from the magic of this land called Hanalei! (True or not, IZ definitely needs to do a cover of Puff. So does Kolo!)
